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There is a perpetual balance between use and impact throughout the industry. Not far from Oamaru, a $200m cement plant is being proposed by Holcim New Zealand, which some locals fear will undo years of work to bolster the town’s image for wildlife and unspoiled environments.

Similar factors are at work on Stewart Island, where 85 per cent of the land is protected in Rakiura National Park but operators were told this year by the Tourism Industry Association that the number of visitors would have to increase by two thirds, to 100,000 a year, to provide an economic base for the island’s community.

The Department of Conservation’s national concessions and tourism manager Andy Thompson has warned that New Zealand faces some tough choices – including the prospect of caps on visitor numbers – as it tries to strike the right balance between protecting the environment and enabling eco-tourists to access, understand and enjoy it.

Two years ago, National Geographic Society vice president Keith Bellows was advising New Zealand’s ecotourism industry to be selfish to protect what it has, adding: “New Zealand is the perfect place for people to come to and overwhelm.”

And even in the seemingly idyllic environment of the Rough and Tumble Bush Lodge, the risks remain. Just as Cook and Boatwright were putting the finishing touches on their lodge, news came through that Meridian Energy was assessing the gorge directly above them for a 70 megawatt hydro-electric dam.

On one side of the ledger, there was an eco-lodge run by committed and educated conservationists who aim to inspire a new generation of informed eco-tourists. On the other, a clean and green carbon-neutral source of energy to power 27,000 homes.

In a way, it’s axiomatic of New Zealand ecotourism’s bid to strike a balance, to ensure that the appeal that brings people from halfway around the world is able to be sustained for the generations to follow.

The Rough and Tumble Bush Lodge has safe swimming in the Mokihinui River


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